"The Banquet for Queen Christine of Sweden"

Having converted to Catholicism during a solemn profession of faith in the cathedral at Innsbruck, Queen Christine of Sweden entered Italy in November 1655 on her way to Rome where she would take communion at the hands of Pope Alexander VII on Christmas Eve. Along her journey (a magnificent triumph for this young and cultured queen), the banquets offered in her honor by the princes and noblemen of the Italian cities she visited were marked by spectacularity and creativity.

The great chef, Bartolomeo Stefani, mentions the three banquets offered by the Duke of Parma to the queen, in particular the last of these on November 27, 1655 in which, he recalls, "I myself served her the centerpieces and other foods."

Stefani describes in detail the sumptuous table settings and abundance of the foods served. Among the centerpieces were "gold vases and wine cellars loaded with crystal decanters trimmed with gold, created with such mastery that all who saw them were astounded. Dominating the middle of the table was a centerpiece made of sugar depicting Mount Olympus with the altar of the faith, at the summit of which were two cherubs holding the royal crown over Her Majesty's coat of arms". Equally sumptuous were the courses which followed: soup of fattened pigeon, pheasant pie, sliced salami and cold meats served in a basket of fresh flowers, larded turkey, head of wild boar, marzipan cake and grouse. And this was just the first round with others to follow including a first course with pheasant meat, vegetable dishes, capon in white sauce, roast boar and a plethora of other dishes, ending with a third and final round with the presentation of another sugar centerpiece, a veritable masterpiece of alimentary sculpture: "A raging Jove with eagle at his feet and Mars holding his arms".

Magnificence, overabundance of the table settings and dishes served were the key elements in any great banquet as a show of power, wealth and generosity of the hosting nobleman. Banqueting was a formidable means of communication with the banquet itself transformed into entertainment and theater of marvels. In comparison, even the most elegant and refined state dinner today would seem a school cafeteria in comparison.

From T. Gregory, Menu barocchi per una Regina, in Sole 24 Ore, 12.11.1999, p 34.

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